Chateau de Chambord: More than Salamanders and Staircases

If you’re traveling to Paris with an adventurous family like mine, you’re undoubtedly wondering what to do near a huge city for fun. Don’t worry, I have your back. Our first stay in Paris was brief, as we landed and took the fast train (186 mph) to Saint-Pierre-des-Corpes. Next, we rented a car from Sixt Car Rentals and drove about 20 minutes to the town of Amboise to stay at an Airbnb (our Airbnb was a cave – more on that later). Our final destination and the purpose of this article is none other than Chateau de Chambord in France!

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Before we begin talking about Chateau de Chambord, one of France’s largest chateaus, let’s go over some history. What else would you do if you were 25 years old during the Renaissance? Build the valley’s biggest chateau, of course!

This is exactly what King Francis (spelled King Francois in French) I did in 1519. The King commissioned the Chateau de Chambord construction solely for hunting purposes. And, get this – he only used it for seven weeks of his life! Oh, it must feel good to be a King.

That brings us to what I’m writing about today. I learned about Chambord from a friend who insisted on visiting the Loire Valley. He thought my wife and I would enjoy the French vineyards and chateaus (spoiler alert, he was right).

The Loire Valley and Chateau de Chambord attracted my curiosity as I researched them more. Below I’m doing to discuss the five things every adventurer and outdoorsman must see at Chateau de Chambord.

Chateau versus castle

Before we proceed any farther, let’s define a chateau. The French spell château with a decorative symbol above the letter a. The American spelling is chateau, without the fancy symbol. When you view a chateau in France, your first thought is, “that is a castle!”

Americans refer to them as castles, whereas most French refer to them as “manor residences.” True castles were fortified, although most chateaus in France were not. Even so, many of the French we encountered referred to the chateaus as castles, and vice versa. So, for the purpose of this article, we’ll use the two words interchangeably.

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Our Trip to france

My family’s journey to Chateau de Chambord in the Loire Valley almost didn’t happen. We were already on our way to Paris, but we weren’t sure what to do with our extra four days in France. As mentioned above, a friend’s suggestion lead us to the Loire Valley.

The Loire Valley is best described as looking like a scene from a Disney movie. There are verdant fields everywhere, vast rivers, bridges, and chalets as far as the eye can see.

About Chateau de Chambord

France’s famed and majestic Chateau de Chambord is a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture. Why? It’s freaking awesome, that’s why. It has everything you’d want in a chateau if you could have one. It has the wow effect. It’s stunning, gigantic, has ornate gardens, a moat, and even a horse stable (the stable, however, wasn’t built by Francis, but rather, by King Louis XIV).

The 440-room, 365-hearthroom, 84-staircase palace was originally utilized as King Francis I’s hunting lodge. Based on my math, that means he had a different fireplace he could use every day of the year!

Chambord changed with each owner through history

This manor was passed down through history to different kings, noblemen, private owners, and ultimately the state in 1930. Each owner put their own personal touch on it. At several times throughout history, it was in total disrepair. One story we were told was that at one point in history even the floors were auctioned off, and doors burned for heat during the sale.

Chambord took over 30 years to complete after King Francis I ordered its construction. It’s interesting to note the Chateau de Chambord is one of over 300 chateaus along a 175-mile stretch of river in the Loire Valley.

Historians know that Leonardo da Vinci helped design several aspects of the castle. The most important being the double helix staircase (da Vinci had drawings of the famous staircase at his residence in Amboise, more on that later). It is debatable if he planned the entire chateau’s construction. Today, Chambord is a renowned tourist attraction and on the UNESCO World Heritage Site list.

1. The Hunting Room (Salle Des Chasses)

The first thing every outdoorsman and adventurer visiting the castle should see is the Salle des Chasses. This ground floor room is a rectangular space within the beautiful walls of the Château de Chambord.

For people like me that cannot pronounce the fancy French word above, it’s referred to as the “Hunting Room.” I was drawn to this room immediately and it remains my favorite. In fact, it was ironically the first room I entered, without really knowing much about it.

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How did get I there? Upon entering one of the castle’s main doors, there is a small vestibule that leads to the Hunting Room. The main room is covered with glass windows at the front, with doors that actually shut and lock over EACH window – one of the cool details you’ll notice of this amazing building. At entry to the chateau, grab a tablet which provides you with an online tour. With it, you won’t get lost and you can find directions to anywhere.

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The doors into the Hunting Room weren’t the “normal” American doors, nor would you expect them to be. The entrances were all the same height, but the French were not noted for their stature, at least not in the 16th century, and these doors just cleared 6 feet. I had to duck so I wouldn’t hit my head. Three doors divided the Hunting Room from the chateau’s main hall; two led to that area, and the third door led into a smaller room.

It’s unlikely the doors were original since we were told those were burned at public auction to stay warm. However, they are probably reflective of the decor at the time King Francis I was reigning.

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Salamanders that spit water and swallow fire

There’s salamanders all of over this place. Not real ones, but engravings. This animal was King Francis’ emblem.

So, would I chose a salamander as my sign of nobility? Probably not, at least not until I understood why the King chose it. So, what’s with the salamander? Here’s the story given by a Chambord guide, and it makes sense why the salamander is such an appropriate emblem for King Francis I.

The Salamander King

The King carefully studied all of the symbols available and picked this magnificent beast of an animal as his emblem. It’s not really a beast, but it was once thought to be a mythical creature, possibly with magical powers. Nobody knew everything there was to know about salamanders, but they were thought to have unique abilities. As a result, King Francis I became known as the “Salamander King.”

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Keep in mind, Francis I became king at the young age of 20 in 1515. If I was 20 years old, the idea of a salamander as my emblem makes a lot more sense. I was still playing in creeks and had no worries other than having fun. I’m sure the King’s life was a lot different. He just became King, but perhaps he still had a little more child in him than most royalty due to his young age.

Why King Francis I chose the salamander

So, if you’ve followed me so far, why the salamander? Along the lines of being a mythical creature, the King desired to perceive himself as the salamander was pictured on shields and engravings in his chateaus.

Several stone and wood carvings show salamanders consuming flames or spouting water. These sculptures represent how King Francis cared for his citizens by extinguishing fires or problems, but he also grew stronger by enduring challenges. Perhaps it is a stretch, but it makes sense when you think about it. Nonetheless, it’s cool to see them throughout the building’s architecture.

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Each door featured elaborate carvings on solid, enormous slabs of wood. One of the pieces included a carved salamander. There are around 300 salamander motifs in the castle, making it a prominent motif. When you visit, attempt to locate them. They are frequently found carved onto ceilings, stairwells, and doors.

The interior of Salle des Chasses inside Chateau de Chambord

My favorite room at the Chateau de Chambord was the hunting chamber. The gold-gilded picture frames exhibiting wildlife artwork provided a great contrast to the green walls. The room was outfitted with crystal chandeliers and a wood floor with square patterns.

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Salle des Chasses receives ample natural light through large windows on both sides. The windows also offer wonderful views of the surrounding woodland. The hunting room’s walls are decorated with intricate murals, woodwork, and paintings. These paintings depict various hunting landscapes and wild creatures such as hares, boars, and deer.

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A big white marble fireplace takes up half of one wall of Salle des Chasses. Surprisingly, it is large enough to accommodate numerous individuals standing within – ask us how. We discovered that due to the chateau’s size, keeping the temperature consistent throughout was difficult.

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The upstairs rooms proved the most difficult to heat. The fireplace is decorated with elaborate sculptures of legendary animals and hunting scenes. Two massive statues of the god Apollo and Diana, the Roman goddess of hunting, flank it. Apollo is linked to both music and hunting.

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Salle des Chasses contains various additional pieces of furniture and artwork. Four glass-enclosed cabinets include taxidermied birds, rabbits, and foxes. The Salle des Chasses is an excellent example of Renaissance art. The design and artwork provide insight into King Francis I’s likes and preferences.

2. Leonardo Da Vinci’s Double helix staircase in Chateau de Chambord

The castle’s most noticeable feature is Leonardo da Vinci’s double spiral staircase, which was designed for King Francis I.

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What is a double helix staircase?

A double helix staircase is a unique design, structured in the same shape as DNA. It’s been said that da Vinci’s inventions were 5 centuries ahead of his time. Is it possible he knew about DNA? After visiting his residence in Abroise and seeing his inventions, I think anything’s possible.

The double helix staircase at Chateau de Chambord has small windows people walking up can see the people walking down. Below is an image and model of the double helix on display where da Vinci lived the last three years of his life, at Le Château du Clos Lucé

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Because of its unique design, two persons can climb and descend the stairs together without ever crossing paths. A USA Today story examines the staircase’s similarities to the double helix found in DNA. We know da Vinci was ahead of his time, but did he understand DNA? After seeing how extraordinary his inventions were at his residence in Amboise, I think it’s possible.

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As I climbed the 84 step central staircase, I couldn’t help but wonder if the 365 fireplaces were specifically built to coincide with the number of days in a year. Things that make you go hmmmm.

One staircase wraps around the other, forming an interwoven motif. This layout gives the two steps the appearance of one continuous spiral, which is visually spectacular.

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3. 1939-1945 Save some of the world’s beauty exhibit

Here’s another fascinating story about the history of Chateau de Chambord. Put on your seatbelts as this is pretty cool and the first time I had heard about it. Many items of art from the Paris-based Louvre Museum were relocated to the chaeau during World War II to protect them from damage in case the Germans invaded France.

The castle housed thousands of Louvre artworks at one point, including sculptures, paintings, and other priceless objects. Jacques Jaujard was in charge of packaging, removing and storing the priceless pieces of art and keeping them out of the hands of the enemy.

Over 6000 pieces were transferred from the Louvre to Chambord. Some remained at Chambord, while others were sent to other locations throughout France. The Germans did enter the Louvre in 1940 and to their amazement they found it empty, all thanks to Jaujard.

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How to get to the Louvre art storage room

We stumbled upon the room, and I’m glad we did. To get to it, take da Vinci’s double helix staircase to the fourth floor. Walk out into the open roof top where you’ll find a small door opening with steps leading down. There you’ll find the most incredible exhibit at Chamboard.

I’m really surprised it’s not advertised more, but I’m sort of glad it’s not. When we went it wasn’t saturated with people and you could really take your time to read each story displayed on by projectors.

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The story goes that the priceless French artwork from the Louvre needed to be properly packaged and transported across long distances, making the journey to Chateau Chambord arduous. The Louvre personnel worked hard to ensure that the artwork was protected during transit and arrived safely at its destination.

After arriving at Chateau Chambord, the artwork was carefully unloaded and displayed in various chambers and galleries of the castle. Climate control systems and other safety features were placed in the chambers to protect the artwork from the elements and any damage.

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The artwork at the Louvre and Chateau Chambord remained safe and secure during the war thanks to the employees’ devotion and commitment. The artwork was eventually returned to the Louvre after the war and reinstalled for public sight.

Visitors to Chateau Chambord can learn more about this significant period in the history of art conservation and appreciation by going to the Save Some of the World’s Art Exhibit.

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4. Horse and Bird of prey show

When we arrived at the Château de Chambord, the bottom fell out. Literally. It was pouring so hard that our rain gear was insufficient, so we grabbed a couple umbrellas from the nearby gift shop. We arrived late for the horse and bird prey presentation. The gentleman at the gift shop was gracious enough to welcome us in. Even though we didn’t understand French, we still enjoyed the show.

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We watched numerous well-trained horses and actors perform traditional 16th-century regal acts such as jousting. Hawks, eagles, and a vulture dominated the show with their acrobatic performances.

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5. Grande Brocante de Chambord (the flea market)

From animal artwork to deer antlers and sausages, this world-renowned flea market had something for anybody interested in historical adventures. When we arrived, we were surprised by how many people there were. It was one of the reasons we were late for the bird prey display. It was difficult to find parking, and with the rain, the conditions were muddy!

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But that’s how things go sometimes, and the rain and lousy circumstances only added to our fun. The rain also made for great photographs.

This yearly flea market, which attracts over 500 exhibitors and 50,000 visitors each year, is not to be missed. It is held on May 1st every year. We were fortunate that it happened on the same day that we visited Chambord. This was my first time to see antiques from a country with such a long history. I saw some really great antiques, many were over 100 years old.

Tips for visiting

As with most attractions, get an early start to beat the traffic. Mondays and Tuesdays are the best times to go since crowds are smaller. Thursday, Friday, and Saturday are the busiest times at the castle. It’s cool to note that many of the visitors we saw were French. Compared to some other countries we’ve visited like Australia, France has kept traveling within the country affordable for its people.

Getting to Chateau de Chambord

It took two days to journey to the Chateau de Chambord from Paris. First, we boarded a flight that flew directly from the United States to Paris. We probably should have stayed a day in Paris to recuperate from our flight, but we pushed on directly towards the Loire Valley.

We hopped the fast train towards the Lorie Valley. Our stop was Saint-Pierre-des-Corpes. Here, we rented a car and drove to our Airbnb in Amboise. Check out Sixt for care rentals in Saint-Pierre-des-Corpes (all the hyphens in the name are not an accident).

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Pictured above: Chateau de Chambord gardens from the fourth floor of the lodge

You shouldn’t have a problem buying tickets at the door to Chateau de Chambord, but it’s so much easier to use the online ticketing service. So, I’d purchase them ahead of time so you know you’ll have tickets. You don’t have to pay for parking, which is nice. From the parking lot, it’s a 10 minute walk to the chateau. By the way, you can also rent bikes and even boats around the grounds.

Did we miss any of your favorite things about Chateau de Chambord? There’s so much to see, you could probably spend days here. But, if you’re an adventurer like me you’ll have a great start by reading this article and seeing the highlights I mentioned. Have fun on your journey to Chateau de Chambord and let me know how many salamanders you count!