CITY OF REFUGE

PU'UHONUA O HONAUNAU

Places > Big Island, Hawaii > Pu’uhonua o Honaunau

By Eric | Updated May 26, 2024

Estimated reading time: 11 minutes

Aloha, and welcome to one of my favorite spots in Kona, Hawaii, the Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Historic Park, also known as the City of Refuge. This park holds cultural and historical significance and is nestled right in the heart of the Kona coast. Furthermore, only steps away, is arguably one of the best snorkeling spots on the Big Island, Two Step.

How I Learned About the Park

Curiosity has led me on many great adventures and this cultural adventure was no different. Some of my best adventures from following up on tips from strangers. It’s kind of odd how my family learned about the City of Refuge.

Picture us at a car rental agency. As soon as we got to the counter at Alamo, the gentlemen checking us in didn’t say hi. He didn’t even ask us about our reservation. In a whisper, he just said three words: City of Refuge.

Why did he whisper? Why was he so intent on us going? It was then I knew I must check out this place out. That second, after filling out that annoying car rental paper work and questioning whether I should get the car insurance this time, I punched in the coordinates on my handy google maps app, and off we went.

If you are planning a last minute trip to the City of Refuge, you want to be sure to make your accommodations and tour bookings ahead of time! Below are some travel suggestions.

Best accommodations in Kona near the City of Refuge:

  1. Royal Kona Resort: 75-5852 Ali‘i Dr, Kailua-Kona, HI; great accomodations
  2. Courtyard by Marriott: 75-5660 Palani Rd, Kailua-Kona, HI; fancy hotel
  3. My Hawai’i Hostel: 76-6241 Ali’i Drive #5, Kailua-Kona, HI; budget hotel

Best car rental agencies near the City of Refuge:

  1. Hertz car rental
  2. Alamo car rental
  3. National car rental

City of Refuge highlights:

  • Cost: $20 per vehicle with 15 persons or less and $10 per bicycle 
  • Accessibility: Accessible to anyone
  • Ages: No age restrictions
  • Supplies: Bring water, but water fountains are available
  • Good to know: Attend a park ranger tour or talk, these are very informative and worthwhile. Do not skip.
  • Parking: Ample parking; when you’re doing stay where you are and go snorkeling at nearby “Two Step”

Devote At Least Two Hours to the City of Refuge

As soon as we got to the Park’s entrance, it was apparent why this place was so special to the man at the car rental agency, and thousands others that visit this historical site. Towering palm trees adorned the entrance as well as a lava rock sign with various wooden carvings.

I would recommend devoting about 2 hours touring Pu’uhonua o Honaunau. This will give you enough time to watch the movie about the City of Refuge in the Park’s amphitheatre, listen to a talk from a park ranger and visit the actual structures and wood carvings discussed below.

If you have children like I do, you might not be able to spend as much time observing each historic station as you’d like. However, grab a map from a park ranger and do your best to read each description. It’s really a worthwhile place to understand more about the history of the location and people.

Walking through the park feels like a journey back in time. I will take you on a virtual park tour in this travel guide and highlight some noteworthy stops.

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How to get to Pu’uhonoua O Honaunau

Use this map to locate the City of Refuge. Scroll to the left or right, and zoom in with two fingers if using your phone.

Address: State Hwy 160, Hōnaunau, HI 96726

Phone number: (808) 328-2326

What is Pu’uhonoua O Honaunau or the City of Refuge?

Visiting the City of Refuge: Tips and Advice

  • $20 entrance fee per vehicle ($10 per person on foot or $15 for motorcyle)
  • Temporary passes are valid for 7 days
  • $35 for Pu’uhonoua O Honaunau annual pass
  • $55 Hawaii annual 3 national park pass
  • Bring water bottle (refillable water station and restrooms present at facility)
  • Take photography equipment, great photo opportunites
  • Wear sunscreen, full sun in some locations
  • Food and beverage are not on site
  • Consider Park Ranger talks at the entrance of the refuge
  • The visitor center is open 8:30 to 4:30
  • Visitor parking lot is available 8:15 am to sunset
  • Directions to Pu’uhonoua

Historical significance of Pu’uhonoua

Pu’uhonua O Honaunau played a prominent role in ancient Hawaiian culture. It was a refuge where individuals who had broken sacred Hawaiian law, the kapu, could flee and seek forgiveness for their transgressions.

puuhonua-o-honaunau-national-park-entry-sign

Breaking the kapu was punishable by death and Pu’uhonua O Honaunau was the only place on the Big Island that protected those that broke the kapu. The site was also an important religious center for worshipping Hawaiian gods and goddesses.

It’s one of the prettiest national parks I’ve visited and offers several great photo opportunities. Furthermore, it provides a great way to learn about Hawaii’s culture and history.

The history of Pu’uhonua O Honaunau dates back several centuries. The site was the home of Hawaiian royalty, and it was a place of great importance for the chiefs of Hawaii.

cultural-signficance-of-historical-puuhonua-o-honaunau

Throughout its history, the site has undergone several renovations and reconstructions, with the most significant taking place during the reign of King Kamehameha II, who transformed the site into a place of peace and reconciliation. The King wanted the site to symbolize his commitment to bringing unity to the Hawaiian people.

The City of Refuge: a virtual tour

Below is a virtual tour of Pu’uhonua O Honaunau, taking you through each significant historical site at the National Park.

1. Royal grounds

We will start our tour at the Royal Grounds, home to the Ali’i, akaroyalty of Hawaii. The area is marked with distinct lava boundary walls and is where you can find the remains of some old structures. Beautiful greenery grows surrounds the ancient stone structures. It’s a peaceful and serene location.

royal-grounds-city-of-refuge-kona-hawaii

2. Temple model

Worship took place at the temple model. It’s a small structure made of lava rock and is incredibly well-preserved. Its two-layered roof and intricate carvings around the edge are unique.

temple-model-puuhonua-national-park

3. Konane strategy game

Konane is an ancient strategy game played in Hawaii. It’s a little like checkers but much more complex. At this stop, you will find a rock slab with a Konane game carved into it and instructions for how to play.

konane-strategy-game-hawaii-kona-puuhonua

4. Kanoa

The Kanoa is a set of bowls carved into rock for dying Kapa or bark cloth. Kapa was a significant part of Hawaiian culture, and these bowls would have been essential to the Kapa-making process. The bowls are fascinating to see, and the fact that they still exist after all these years is truly remarkable.

lava-bowls-city-of-refuge-national-park-hawaii-big-island

5. Tree molds made form lava

As we continue through the park, we come across tree molds made from lava. These molds form when lava flows over the trees, hardening around them and preserving their shape. Seeing how perfectly the molds match the tree’s shape and the incredible attention to detail in the bark’s texture is impressive.

6. Keone’ele protected cove

Next, we arrive at Keone’ele Protected Cove, the only place the Hawaiians could land canoes. Natural rock formations protect the cove, making it easy to land a canoe. It’s a stunning location, and it’s easy to imagine how busy it would have been in the past with fishermen coming and going. This site overlooks the popular snorkel spot, Two Step.

protected-cove-kona-royal-grounds

7. The great wall

The Great Wall is one of the most impressive structures in the park. It’s up to 12 feet tall and 18 feet wide and spans an incredible 950 feet. Experts believe the wall kept out enemies.

great-wall-city-of-refuge

8. Hale of Kea’we

The Hale of Kea’we is a royal mausoleum that houses the bones of 23 Ali’i. It’s a quiet and peaceful spot with beautiful views of the ocean. The structure itself is impressive with its unique design and well-preserved condition.

hale-of-keawe-city-of-refuge-kona

9. Pu’uhonua

Our next stop in the City of Refuge is Pu’uhonua. In the past, if someone had broken a law, they could escape to this city and receive protection, safe from punishment. Religious ceremonies took place here as well.

puuhonua-kona

10. Keoua stone

Our next stop is the Keoua Stone, the favorite resting place of the high chief Keoua. It’s a beautiful spot with fantastic ocean views that would have been a peaceful place for chiefs to rest and reflect.

wooden-statues-puuhonoua-o-honauna

11. ‘Ale’ale’a

‘Ale’ale’a is a platform built in seven stages. Oral tradition states Hale o Keawe relaxed and watch hula on this platform.

12. K’ahumanu stone

The K’ahumanu Stone is a large boulder. Legend has it that Queen Ka’ahumanua hid under the stone after a quarrel with her husband Kamehameha.

13. Papamu

Small depressions or poho carved into a flat rock to play konane. Skills acquired by playing this game trained participants for strategy, such as in battle.

14. Old Heiau site

The Old Heiau site is another ancient temple structure.

temple-puuhonua-big-island-hawaii

15. Royal fish grounds

The Royal Fish Grounds are a series of small shallow pools used for fish farming. The pools allow for seawater exchange to allow the harvest of fish.

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16. Ha’lau

Our last stop is Ha’lau, which is an outdoor open-air hall. Natural rock formations protect the area from the wind.

halau-thatched-roof-puuhonua-kona

Thank you for joining me on this virtual Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Historic Park virtual tour in Kona, Hawaii. Each stop in this park is unique and provides insight into Hawaiian history and culture.

As you can see, this beautiful location has so much to discover. I hope this virtual tour of the City of Refuge or Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Historic Park inspires you to visit this incredible location in person someday.